Viognier, it is a known grape, but many struggle with its pronunciation (vee-ohn-YAY). Once upon a time, not so long ago there was a rumor going around that Viognier was going to be the next Chardonnay. Perhaps even replace Chardonnay for those who wanted a change from the famous grape’s classic California style. That did not happen. If anything, un-oaked Chardonnay took that spot. With that said, the producers who were dedicated to Viognier stuck with it and still to this day produce terrific wines from this fragrant and often finicky grape. I say “finicky” because Viognier can be a very difficult grape to grow because it is prone to mildew. As a result, it has low and unpredictable yields. It should only be picked when fully ripe. When picked too early, the grape fails to develop its wonderful aromas and tastes. When picked too late, the grape produces wine that is oily and lacks its magical fragrance. Producers that know what they’re doing, get it right and produce wonderful wines like those noted below. But now you know why it is very tough for this varietal to be mass produced and wildly popular. In this report, you will see that I highlight some top scoring Viogniers from producers in California, Oregon and Australia. Notably missing from the report are the Viogniers from the northern Rhone Valley. This grape was made famous there. In particular, in a region called Condrieu. The Condrieus that I have covered in the past have been superb, however they typically cost a lot more than these recommended offerings. If you truly want to fully explore this grape you must try one or two from that region. I hope you choose to explore this grape. Please post comments on the gems you have discovered.
We start the report with a Viognier that I always wanted to try from D’Arenberg. Their 2009 “Last Ditch” Viognier for $25 lived up to all my expectations. I scored it 91 points. It is medium-bodied, balanced, and very easy to enjoy. The flavor profile is a very tasty pear with notes of mild green apple and hints of lemon meringue pie in the end. This is a very approachable and extremely food-friendly Viognier that would pair well with many dishes. The only bad news is there were only 225 cases imported, so start your search now and call in a favor from your favorite retailer.
The next four Viogniers all scored 90 points. We’ll start with the 2009 Fess Parker “Santa Barbara County” Viognier for $22. This offering is mostly Viognier with other Rhone varietals mixed in, which really add to the mix. This blend is medium-bodied, well balanced, and very smooth. I was very fond of its very tasty tangerine flavors with mild melon and hints of butter and white pepper mixed in as well. I would pair this really nice Viognier with chicken picatta.
Next we move up to Oregon. The 2009 Cristom “Estate” Viognierfrom the Eola and Amity region was very pleasant. It is $26per bottle and comes with a fancy glass enclosure which was different. It opens with a Clementine bouquet with a hint of anise. Its flavor profile is a mild apricot with a hint of minerality, green melon, and a touch of spice. This very enjoyable Viognier calls for a second glass. It would also go perfectly with seared sea scallops.
Another great region for Viognier is Australia. This wine was my favorite from there this year. The 2009 Yangarra Viognierfrom the McLaren Vale is a little pricier at $29.However if you can get a bottle, you will fully enjoy it. Finding a bottle could be a challenge as only 200 cases were imported. When you do find it, you will enjoy its blend of mild Anjou pear and gentle apricot flavors with just a touch of oak. It is food-friendly and easy going. I would pair it with wild mushroom and chicken ravioli in a thick cream sauce.
Our last 90 pointer comes from the Napa Valley. The 2009 Darioush for $39 is a hit every time I cover it. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, very well balanced, smooth, and creamy. The tasting group that tried it, enjoyed its very tasty oak and pear flavors with a dash of white pepper. It finishes dry and pleasant. I would pair it with chicken tortellini with a creamed butter sauce.
The final three Viogniers are all Very Good and worth a try. We start with the 2009 Freemark Abbey Viognier from the Napa Valley. For $20 it the best bargain of the wines listed. I presented it to a mini-tasting group and it was well received by all. You will find it to be full-bodied, balanced, and a little creamy. We really enjoyed its tasty mild tangerine flavors with a hint of peach and apricot. The group thought this wine would pair well with roast chicken with garlic.
Next is an old standby for Viognier. Zaca Mesa consistently makes a Very Good Viognier and the 2009 offering for $20 is no exception. We scored the 2009 88 points. It was medium-bodied and showed a slightly creamy mouthfeel. We found the flavor profile to be a mineral-infused mild lychee with a hint of white pepper and tangerine.
We conclude with a Viognier based blend that is always intriguing and reasonable priced. The 2009 Michael & David Phillips “Incognito White Wine Blend” for $18 also received 88 points. It reminded me of Conundrum and would also appeal to Gewurtz fans. It was full-bodied, viscous, and fruit forward. The flavor profile was a very flavorful lychee with notes of pear and peach. There was also a dash of white pepper and spice detected as well. The group agreed that this wine would pair well with quiche Lorraine.
I hope you get a chance to try some wines made from this unique grape. We would love you to share your favorites with the group. I am certainly looking forward to starting all over again next fall.
Cheers – Ken
Great article – I love Viognier, a grape that definitely doesn’t get enough respect! I recently wrote about some of the great kosher options out there [http://goo.gl/RoaJd] which keep getting better and better.
Yossie Horwitz
My ultimate Viognier favorite is the 2006 and 2009 Domaine Yves Cuilleron from the Condrieu Region in Northern Rhone. It is very difficult to find and obtain at a reasonable price.